After the SIHH 2014, the emerging trends

A moment of sobriety

2014 started with the presentation of timepieces with compact cases. This led us to believe that this year would once again be the year of Asian markets. It would also be an excuse for the brands to express a sudden interest in the female market. However, after the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, horological intentions seem to be quite different. The gradual end of the Chinese euphoria coupled with the anti-corruption investigations carried out in the Middle Kingdom brought about this moment of sobriety. Furthermore, women have finally been acknowledged as potential buyers by watchmakers.

If it were not for its unidirectional graduated bezel, the Cartier Calibre Diver, a diving watch, could easily be confused with a robust evening watch.

‘Bling-bling’ has been replaced by discreet elegance. Even the somewhat flashy sports models, such as diving watches, have shown a tendency to restraint. Examples include the Calibre Diver by Cartier or the Aquatimer by IWC. Sobriety has reached even complicated watches, as is the case of the Tourbillon 24 secondes by Greubel Forsey which features an anthracite dial.

On the new version of the IWC Aquatimer, there are no colors on bezel and the graduation is also more discreet.

The thinnest of the thin

Sobriety is often associated with thinness. The tendencies for 2014 prove that watch cases can be even more compact. For instance, the Altiplano 900P by Piaget, the Hybris Mechanica 11 by Jaeger-LeCoultre or the Référence 5377 by Breguet have all broken records.

With its different engine-turnings and the flutes on the case, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique is a 100% Breguet product and it also is the thinnest model in its category.

While the model with the electric blue case was dazzling, the anthracite version of the Greubel Forsey 24 seconds Tourbillon stands out due to its discreet elegance.

Diamonds and complications

Watchmakers have always sought to seduce women. This year, the wish was materialized in the form of production, and the amount of feminine novelties matched that of masculine ones. Richard Mille introduced no less than four models for women including the very glam-rock Tourbillon RM 19-01 Natalie Portman. Vacheron Constantin added three new feminine models to its Malte collection. It is a pity, however, that this heartening opening to the fair sex did not prevent the woman = diamond cliché at all.

A feat of thinness, the 900P by Piaget unites the chic sobriety of the Altiplano collection with the technical charm of the visible geartrains.

As for complicated watches, the (very) well-made heads give the impression that word was sent around to propose innovating versions of perpetual calendars, some of which have not yet been presented. An example of those would be the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire.

The Jaeger-Lecoultre Hybris Mechanica is very thin and very streamlined. Difficult to believe that it is an automatic minute repeater tourbillon.

Even without its setting, the RM 19-01 Natalie Portman, succeeds in being technical, beautiful, aggressive and yet absolutely feminine at the same time.

By introducing three new models for her and only one for him in this collection, Vacheron Constantin sends a strong message.

Even though several Perpetual Calendars have been introduced this year, the Cartier Rotondo Astrocalendaire stands out as the entirely original creation.