SIHH 2014: Pierre Arpels collection

SIHH 2014: Pierre Arpels collection

Created en 1949, the Pierre Arpels watch has epitomized Van Cleef & Arpels’ vision of masculinity. A perfect blend of sophistication and understatement, it is notable for an exceptionally thin case held by two unobtrusive central attachments. In 2012, the Maison reinterpreted this icon of watchmaking and has since enriched the collection with new models that reflect Pierre Arpels’ way of life. An aesthete, designer and businessman, Estelle Arpels’ nephew was also a socialite and a traveler: two facets to which Van Cleef & Arpels pays homage at the SIHH 2014.

INSPIRATION

With this new Heure d’ici & Heure d’ailleurs timepiece, the Maison presents an understated and poetic interpretation of travel – the way that Pierre Arpels appreciated it. Inspired by the curiosity for the cultures of the world that has characterized Van Cleef & Arpels since its foundation, he crisscrossed the globe in response to the orders of the Maison’s leading customers. One notable example occured in 1966, when Van Cleef & Arpels was chosen to produce the crown jewels for the Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran, whose coronation was to take place the following year. Over the course of six months, Pierre Arpels made 24 journeys to Tehran, during which he carefully selected stones from the National Treasury – held in the Central Bank of Iran – and then installed a veritable workshop in the Treasury building. He also journeyed to India, where he roamed the country with his brother Claude, in search of the most beautiful precious stones.

DESIGN AND SAVOIR-FAIRE

Today, the Maison has striven to express this vision of Elsewhere while respecting the timeless aesthetic characteristics of the Pierre Arpels collection: lines of exceptional purity, the thin case held by central attachments and the piqué motif at the center of the dial, evoking both a black-tie shirtfront and the Van Cleef & Arpels hallmark.

This new creation also displays other stylistic elements typical of the Maison, such as asymmetry – often found in its jewelry pieces – and the cursive script for the name of the watch, paying homage to the poetry of words.
The same quest for elegance is apparent in the single crown, which provides a means of winding the movement and setting both the minutes and the two time zones, while illuminating the case’s circle with a diamond.

Attitudes Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels - Bidirectional micro-rotor

A DUAL TIME MOVEMENT

For the first time, the Pierre Arpels collection welcomes a dual time complicated watch, reflecting Van Cleef & Arpels Poetry of Time. Developed in partnership with Agenhor (Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie), this exclusive self-winding movement is distinguished by its double jumping hour and minute retrograde display. The hour that acts as the reference – displayed in the aperture at the top of the dial – and the hour of the second time zone that appears in the lower aperture both jump at the same time, thanks to a single sector that synchronizes the two hour discs and the retrograde minute hand.
When the latter reaches 60 minutes on the graduated scale, it returns to its starting position at the same instant that the hour display changes.

In order to maintain the thinness of the case – a distinguishing feature of the Pierre Arpels collection – the automatic movement is equipped with a platinum micro-rotor that takes up remarkably little space. By oscillating in two directions, it can supply energy continuously. The movement, which is visible through a sapphire crystal, is adorned with a snailed pattern on the bridges, the Van Cleef & Arpels hallmark and a blue lacquered design on the micro-rotor that echoes the piqué motif on the dial.

Attitudes Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels - Hour display discs

INSPIRATION

When Pierre Arpels created his own watch in 1949, it was designed to accompany whatever he might be wearing – from morning to night, on ordinary days and at special occasions alike. A man of the world, Pierre Arpels had a taste for receptions, where his charm and natural elegance stood out. In 1960, a party was held at the Place Vendôme boutique to celebrate the acquisition of an exceptional pink diamond weighing 34.64 carats. At this occasion, he presented the stone to the Maharani of Baroda and her son, in whose honor the diamond was named ‘‘Princie’’. A perfect host in Paris, Pierre Arpels also took part in the social life of the Côte d’Azur, where Van Cleef & Arpels had branches in Cannes and Monaco. From premieres at the Cannes Film Festival to gala evenings in Monte Carlo, his watch accompanied him with exquisite refinement and discretion.

DESIGN AND SAVOIR-FAIRE

An iconic timepiece from Van Cleef & Arpels, the Pierre Arpels watch takes on a very exclusive aspect in this brand new platinum version. The rare and unchanging metal forms an elegant contrast to the black lacquered dial, evoking the masculine dress code for the smartest receptions. The collection’s emblematic piqué motif, inspired by black-tie shirtfronts, appears within this perfect circle, while the slightly raised roman numerals, hour markers and hands stand out like strokes of light. In diameters of 38mm or 42mm, this creation is available with or without baguette-cut diamonds. Set into the bezel, this glittering line completes the ensemble and expresses the sophistication of magical evenings in the noblest of materials.